![]() ![]() This is the point where the loop-might offset, since you'll be losing some temp in the hoses between the exit of the RIMS and the mashtun. The important thing is that your RIMS is tuned to give the set temperature in the tun, at a given flow. This will make you want to overshoot the temp a little bit to account for 15 minutes temp-loss. You should shut of the pump after mash-in to let the grains settle (at least my opinion), and wait for 15 minutes before you start the pump. I bought a brew bag made for that cooler and it works great. The wort is circulated from the bottom of the mash tun, through the coil and back to the top of the mash tun. I built a 10 gallon HD mash tun and use it for MIAB. Stir the water until the temperature drops to your strike temperature of 162F and then add your grains. Mash Tun (Water to Grist Ratio) (Largest Grist Bill) + (Grain Volume) (Largest Grist Bill) MT 4 5 + 0.652 5 23.3 l Hot Liquor tun Strike water + sparge water. It will probably drop to about 164F or 165F. Mill roller number: 3 (The MM-3 Pro from Monster Brewing) Mill gap: 0.813 mm (0.032') Coarse grist ratio: 56.1 (14 screen) Regular grist ratio: 24.2 (30 screen) Fine grist ratio: 9.0 (60 screen) Pan grist ratio: 10.7 (dust) Method to test absorption: Normal math used for such things, RO water at 170F, 60 minute steep in a Styrofoam. For example, if BeerSmith tells me to strike at 162F, Ill put my water into my mash tun at about 170F. Afterwards, go into beersmith, keep strike temp the same, and adjust specific heat until mash temp is the same as what you got. In the hot liquor tun is an immersion coil that acts as a heat exchanger. You needed to put your water into your mash tun at a higher temperature than 162F. The recirculation should'nt mean anything, if it's tuned correctly. The most common HERMS design has a hot liquor tun with hot water in it that is heated directly for use in the later lauter stage. It was a little bit back and forth since if I enter a different temp for the mash tun, BS takes that into account and gives me a different strike-temp, so a little bit of juggling until both numbers are the same. But how much of a difference does that make? I set the temp of mash tun to whatever BS told me to "add grain at xx temp", and set the grains to 5C. But during actual brewing, the thickness at 25-45cm is also acceptable. Generally the grain bed thickness at about 30-40cm is best for lautering. When I used a Blichmann I had it to default 0.12. For professional brewing, just mean someone who brew barrels, generally need to consider of the Lauter tun size in advance if they plan to brew high gravity beer frequently.
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